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勃艮第Burbundy10大酒王

发布日期:2009-11-09

亚洲爱酒人一般不太懂得欣赏Burbundy(布根地)的酒,这是有历史因素的。Burgundy酒外销,向以欧洲大陆为主,运往英国已经较少(远不及Bordeaux酒的数量);加上Burgundy顶级酒的产量本即不多,有1,000箱已经是非常大量,数量稀少当然更难扩大市场。

何止两大金刚

不过,Pinor Noir(黑比诺)这种葡萄,在Burbundy所发挥的香气和口感,任何试过的人都会终身难忘。那种娇柔多姿、温馨缠绵,是任何人都不能抗拒的。酒中的花香、野味、泥土香、果香;那种柔滑,更胜天鹅绒,但又不是入口如油般那种厚重。它总是那么轻柔,又那么醇厚,像特技走钢索那样,险险地平衡着。

喜欢Burbundy的人,很多只懂Romanee-Conti、La Tache。其实Burbundy好酒,绝不只这两大金刚!

我们当然应该明白,为什么人人记得这两种酒,因为它们不单酒好,而且名字简单:只有一个生产者!

过去20年饮过的Burbundy酒之中,我最欣赏的反倒不是上述两款,而是一些已故的或现已非常高龄的Winemaker(酿酒师)、Burbundy人称为「Papa」的作品。

现在市场上疯狂抢购的Henri Jayer,就是其中一位Papa!我有幸20年前开始饮他的酒,现在是他已85岁,想请他来香港也困难了。(编注:Jayer大师方于日前去世。)

选了我饮过最喜欢的10瓶酒,读者可能会埋怨这些酒太难找到。这是事实,饮好酒要讲机缘,也许偶然还可在拍卖会上看见。

Burgundy的Papa大多已经逝世或退休,但他们的后人仍保留那名称,但酒的质量却跟以前不一样了。

也要解释一下我没有选Leroy,因为Leroy自立门户,为时尚短。我试了他们很多酒,还没有达到可以入选为酒王的水平。当然,这是我个人的意见。饮酒,是很个人的。

最后,也可能是最重要的:如果你找不到1959、1966、1985这些经典年份,不要气馁,就等2005吧。2005年的Burbundy绝对是另一个传奇,绝不会比1990年差,且有过之而无不及(尤其是白酒)!

La Tache,1962:
以这个年份来说仍然非常收敛,浓郁的酱油香气,单宁强劲,但丰厚而圆润,口中余香维持数分钟。需3小时换瓶呼吸,仍可再陈年10至20年。其它好年份:1937、1966、1978。

Romanee-Conti,1985:
真正伟大的酒,非常芳香,黑苺、香草香气。入口幼滑如奶油,丹宁充足,香草味浓,层次复杂,有些人所说的「多度空间」。(最近饮用:2003年4月)。其它好年份:1962、1945。

Clos de Tart,Mommessin,1959:
边缘颜色已成熟,完成成熟的野草莓的甜美,层次丰厚,收结悠长。这是试过才会相信的好酒。(最近饮用:1996年6月)。其它好年份:1929、1937、1945。

Clos des Lambrays,

Domaine Or Cosson Henri,1937:
一瓶已被遗忘的「Papa」级作品,色泽非常桃红,显现年份已久,并有水晶状沉殿。入口非常甜美,顺滑,圆润,有巧克力的梅味。(最近饮用:1997年3月在布蒙市)。其它好年份:1921、1947、1962。

Richebourg,Henri Jayer,1959:
市面上唯一比同年份Romanee-Conti还贵的Burgundy酒,这也是要亲自试过才相信的好酒。须3小时前换瓶呼吸,非常浓郁的颜色,大量沉淀,浓郁迷人芳香,任何酒难以寻觅;入口令人震撼,甜美迷人,非言语所能形容,甜美得简直不想开口说话,有如新鲜采摘的Raspberry(覆盆子),终身不忘。(最近饮用:2004年5月在布鲁塞尔)。其它好年份:1962、 1966、1971、1978、1985。

Vosne-Romanee,Cros Parentoux,Henri Jayer,1978:
现存的Burgundy「Papa」 Henri Jayer独家出品,另一瓶比同年份La Tache贵的Pinor Noir。中度浓郁,香艳迷人,果味甜度连绵不断,迷人黑莓味,但仍有充足丹宁。(最近饮用:1999年11月)。其它好年份:1980、1985、 1990。

Musigy V.V.,Comte Vogue,1949:
中度红宝石色,迷人花香,黑苺樱桃,极佳丹宁,充足酸度。(最近饮用:1992年12月)其它好年份:1961、1962、1966。

Romanee-ST.-Viviant,Charles Neollat,1962:
这些家族拥有Romanee-ST.-Vivian最好的葡萄园。它开始时有些旧桶橡木味,然后呈现出旧普洱茶的芳香。入口有密件红莓、黑苺及东方香料味,非常甜美、悠长。(最近饮用:2003年4月)。其它好年份:1959、1966。

此庄于1988年由Domaine Leroy收购部分,但家族仍保留最好的葡萄园。

Clos de La Roche,V.V.,Ponsot,1969:

看颜色和品味,此酒似1990,带新鲜牛血的芳香、浓郁、非常均衡,只边缘略有成熟颜色。层层迭迭的浓郁樱桃和覆盆子果味,仍未完全成熟。(最近饮用:1997年3月)。其它好年份:1947、1980。

Chambertin,Michel Guanoux,1945:
另一位被遗忘的「Papa」,只相信传统酿酒方法。他的 Chambertin(香贝坦)不能不试,试过才明白今天一些所谓Chambertin完全不是那回事。开始时有些牛血混合花、梅的香。入口有层层的草苺和覆盆子甜美,余韵达数分钟。(最近饮用:1997年12月)。其它好年份:1949、1952。

除了以上10瓶质值3星,以下这些极品Pinor Noir也不能忘记:

Nuits-St-Georges Les Prulies,Henri Gouges,1976 ★★
Corton de Corton,Felix Clerget,1952 ★★
Beaune 1er Cru Creves Vigne de l’ Enfant Jesus,Bouchard,1969 ★
Vosne-Romanee Les Malconsorts,Bichot,1966 ★
Pommard Rugiens,Pothier-Rieusset,1949 ★
Corton Clos des Meix,Camte Senard,1952 ★

Top Ten Bungundy Wines

For historical reasons, Asian wine lovers have tended to overlook fine wines from the French region of Burgundy. Most Burgundy wines are exported to continental Europe and a few to the United Kingdom. The production of the grand crus in Burgundy is limited; any wine with a production run of 1,000 cases is regarded as massive. With so few bottles produced, it is difficult for the winemakers to expand into new markets, including Asia.

The most important reason, however, is the way Burgundy wines are made, which is different from Bordeaux’s “one winery, one wine” concept.

Most Burgundy domains and negociants produce several different wines, and in most cases these are made from grapes grown in several different grand cru and premier cru vineyards, which has caused confusion among wine rookies who are not familiar with Burgundy wines.

However, anyone who has experienced the aroma and mouth feel of Burgundy wine made from pinot noir grapes will not forget it. The delicate elegance and warmth are simply irresistible. Each glass carries the aroma of bouquets of flowers, fine game, earth and fruit. The mouth feel is silky, though not as heavy as oil, and truly amazing. It can be described as both soft and dense, almost like hanging in balance when walking on a tight rope in the air.

Many Burgundy wine lovers only know Romanee-Conti and La Tache, but there is more to that region’s wines. People remember them in particular not just because they are great wines with easy-to-remember names, but also because there is only one producer who makes the wines from two vineyards!

For the past 20 years, my favorite Burgundy wines have not been the two already mentioned, but wines by makers who have either passed away, or are in their senior years of winemaking. The Burgundians called these men “Papas.” Henri Jayer is one of the Papas who can cause a commotion whenever his wines appear in a wine auction. I was very fortunate to have been introduced to his wines twenty years ago, but he is now 85 years old and it is very unlikely that he will travel to Hong Kong for a visit.

Here are ten of my favorite Burgundy wines. Most readers will find them difficult to get hold of. Great wines are hard to find, but if you are lucky you might be able to find them at wine auctions.

Most Papas in Burgundy have either passed away or retired. Their descendants have kept their names, but the quality of wine is not in the same league as before.

I did not choose any wine from Leroy because Leroy only set up its own operation a short while ago. Though I have tried many wines from them, none have reached the level of quality of the other wines mentioned on my list. However that is just my opinion. Wine tasting is a very personal matter.

Finally, and maybe most importantly — if you can’t find 1959, 1966 and 1985, the so-called classic vintages, don’t give up. Wait for the 2005s, bound to be another legendary vintage for Burgundy wine. The year is almost as good as 1990 and in some cases exceeds it (especially the white wines).

La Tache 1962:

It has a soy sauce aroma, gripping tannin, dense yet round mouth feel and aftertaste which lasts for few minutes. This wine requires three hours decanting before serving and could age for another 10 to 20 years. Other great vintages to look for in this wine are 1937, 1966 and 1978.

Romanee-Conti 1985:

Truly a great wine, with an incredible bouquet with blackberry and vanilla aroma, soft as butter on the entry, good amount of tannin and rich vanilla taste, very complex. Many people called this wine “multi-dimensional.” (I last tasted it in April of 2003.) Other great vintages to look for in this wine are 1962 and 1945.

Clos de Tart, Mommessin 1959:

The color on the rim showed maturity and it had ripe wild berry and delicious strawberry tastes. Very complex with a long aftertaste. Only after you finish drinking it will you appreciate the greatness of the wine. (I last tasted it in June of 1996.) Other great vintages to look for in this wine are 1929, 1937 and 1945.

Clos des Lambrays, Domaine Or Cosson Henri 1937:

Another forgotten wine from Papa, it has a dark cherry color which shows its age and fine crystallized sediment. Very smooth and round on the entry with a plumy chocolate taste. (I last tasted it in March of1997 in Beaune.) Other great vintages to look for in this wine are 1921, 1947 and1962.

Richebourg, Henri Jayer 1959:

The only wine in the market which has higher price tag than a Romanee-Conti of the same vintage, this is also one of those wines that you have to try to understand its greatness. This one also needs three hours of decanting before serving. It has a very deep color, plenty of sediment, and is full of irresistible aroma which was very hard to find in other wines. It is mind-boggling on the entry, so delicate and smooth that it is almost indescribable, so wonderful that you don’t want to open your month to speak. The taste is just like the freshly picked raspberry, unforgettable. (I last tasted it in May of 2004 in Brussels.) Other great vintages to look for in this wine are 1962, 1966, 1971, 1978 and 1985.

Vosne Romanee, Cros Parantoux, Henri Jayers 1978:

Made by the only Papa left in Burgundy, Henri Jayer. This wine is more expensive than a La Tache of the same vintage. Medium body, dazzling, the taste of the juice from the fruit lingers on, an irresistible black berry taste, but it still has plenty of tannin. (I last tasted it in November of 1999.) Other great vintages to look for in this wine are 1980, 1985, 1990.

Musigny V.V., Comte Vouge 1949:

Medium ruby color, delicate flower, blackberry and cherry aroma, excellent tannin and good level of acidity. (I last tasted it in December of 1992.) Other great vintages to look for in this wine 1961, 1961, 1966.

Romanee St. Vivant, Charles Noellat, 1962:

This family owns the best vineyards in Romanee -St. Vivant. This wine had a bit of an old barrel smell initially , then there was an old Pu-Er tea aroma, on the entry there were currents of dried prune, red berry, blackberry and Asian spices. Very beautiful with a long aftertaste. (I last tasted it in April of 2003.) Other great vintages to look for in this wine are 1959 and 1966. This domaine was sold to Leroy in 1988, but the family kept the best vineyard.

Clos de la Roche V. V. Ponsot, 1969:

From the color and aroma this wine looked like a 1990. With fresh bull’s blood aroma, it is dense and balanced, with only a slight indication of maturation on the color of the rim. Layers of cherry and raspberry aroma, not yet fully aged. (I last tasted it in March of 1997.) Other great vintages to look for in this wine 1947, 1980.

Chambertin, Michel Guanoux 1945:

Another wine from a forgotten Papa who only believed in making wine using traditional methods. His Chambertin is a must, and only after you have tasted it will you realize that the so-called Chambertin of today is not what it should be. It has the aroma of bull’s blood mixing with flower and plum, layers of strawberry and raspberry on the entry, and a few minutes of aftertaste. (I last tasted it in December of 1997.) Other great vintages to look for in this wine are 1949 and 1952.

Besides the ten wines mentioned above, each of which deserve three stars, the following Pinot Noirs are not to be ignored.

Nuits-St-Georges Les Prulies, Henri Gouges, 1976 ★★
Corton de Corton, Felix Clerget, 1952 ★★
Beaune 1er Cru ’Greves’ Vigne de l’ Enfant Jesus, Bouc h ard, 1969 ★
Vosne- Romanee Les Malconsorts, Bichot, 1966 ★
Pommard Rugiens, Pothier-Rieusset, 1949 ★
Corton Clos des Meix, Comte Senard, 1952 ★




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